| emuronourry | Date: Sunday, 2013-08-18, 6:54 PM | Message # 1 |
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| The short first day of the nineday Paris fashion race is reserved for upandcoming talent. Because of its hitormiss reputation, Tuesday is avoided by many fashion editors.However rising star Julien David, who delved playfully into men's clothing, proves that the day does deserve the limelight. His boyish knitwear looks and dark rusings about the Yeti monster provided one of the day's best shows, and with a touch of irony: all too rare in Paris.Italian designer Corrado de Biase also produced a fine show mixing up feminine silhouettes with men's wear quickly becoming a strong trend this fall. Metallic touches, too, ticked the invogue box, having featured prominently on catwalks in Milan and New York. A man of contradictions, Biase said his show mixed references to Coco Chanel with touches of the 1970's.Wednesday the first full day on the calendar will see the week move into top gear with shows including Dries Van Noten, Mugler and London's enfant terrible Gareth Pugh."The tomboy is back," read the program notes at Corrado de Biase's Paris fallwinter show that served up floaty silhouettes with a twist of men's wear.It was an accomplished affair considering it's only the third readytowear offering from the designer, with Barbour raincoats successfully fused on top of sheer 1920's underskirts.Petrol green added futuristic shimmer to quilted capes and jackets, crossing eras in style and time, while 3D floral brocades on several short coats and pencil skirts were given an aggressive edge in metallic silver.A lot this fall has been about men's wear on women, and here this was on full display. Classical tailoring appeared in boyish collars and lapels on nylon shirtdresses in sheer black, but the exposed breasts punched spectators with the clear androgyny.For the designer's inspiration, look no further than the biggest tomboy of her day: Mademoiselle Chanel."I love the garcon look of the twenties," said Biase backstage, "how Coco gave bourgeois women a men's look while staying light in spirit."For the fashion crowd it was a good thing the spirits were light: the cramped venue and lighting glitches might have dampened the mood had the collection not been so strong.The Portuguese designer channeled human morphology with bloody dress inserts, shredded leather sleeves and prints of the venous system in the iconic monument that was built for generals wounded in French imperial wars.Bucking the current trend for padding, the Lopes woman in geometric sheaths had narrow shouldersa look that would have accentuated the frailty of the tinyboned models had it not been for the provocative leathers in patent black and nude.Sexy was the overriding mood, with biascut sheaths split revealingly up the leg and exposing the shoulders. In another sensual but slightly busy look, a plunging decollete and voluminous brown fox fur sleeves contrasted with tight patent leather lapels and a secondskin micro skirt.When the show ended, the crowd departed sheepishly through the courtyard, with 40 huge canons pointing straight at them.Designer Julien David presented a zany and boyish Paris fallwinter collection inspired by the Yeti monster, which should help consolidate his upandcoming star status.There was a trendy insouciance to many of the looks (you can see he's lived in Tokyo): a double face knitted skirt suit in light gray wool was complemented with a sporty sweatband and snowboots. This was one of many looks that might have come with a warning: "It's just fashion. Don't dress like this if it snows!"Flashes of chainmail and metallic silk quilting on pouffy dresses added a cooler, aggressive edge to the first wave of overly warmlooking clothes.The men's wear looks, like a tailored houndstooth suit, also gave the collection variety.But soon enough David was back to the show theme in the mountains, this time facing a childhood fear: the Abominable Snowman. Suffocating Yeti wool blouses, skirts, short pants and snowboots filed out as if the designer was preparing for a bleak winter.The piece de resistance drew gasps: a disturbing Yeti wool midlength dress and huge marshmallow mask with two nightmarish eyeholes and nowhere to breathe.Boyish look kicks off Paris fashion week
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